I was already living in Bali for 2 years when I got a call from Kadu Maia to do a few trips on his boat called the Moonpalikir from @mentawaisurfcharters , was my first real photography gig, I was hungry to show my boss what I could do on the water but my first trips were with really average surfers who biggest dream was to surf Maccas 2" pumping. No matter how good of a photographer you are shooting 2 foot mushy baba will look like 2 foot mushy baba, so I was kind of disappointed with the Ments to speak honestly, I realized that 90% of the clientele was there with their booties and helmets and Hyptos not to evolve or get the barrel of their lives but to take a break from their normal life, relax, get tanned and maybe surf a wave or two.
So my first trips were a disaster, I was sure I was gonna get fired, clients got super offended when I wouldn't go swim in mid day sun and onshore fat waves, in my head "no one wanted to look at a picture of that, more then that no one needs 1000 pictures of doing nothing on a unexistent wave" well I was really wrong on that assumption, so my boss and friend at the time got a few too many negative reviews on the photographer part and for that I'm sorry, on the other hand, it thought me a bit more of what kind of photographer I was, a shitty one if the waves weren't pumping and scary, to be honest.
But he still gave me another shot at it, was the first trip of this group of ozzies, not all of them were chargers, but there was a handful of psychopaths in there for my luck.
The first few days were small, and they got on the piss, ignored the mushy baba days and when things got serious we found our self alone for 3 days at pumping on the verge of almost too big for it Greenbush madness.
My professional choices finally made sense, I was not a commercial photographer I wasn't there for the money, I wanted to share the adrenaline rush that only a huge barrel breaking on a shallow reef can provide.
So thank you boys, for the chance of living my dream and for charging when the bombs came your way.